Category Archives: general

general, technique, tool

Headspace

“What is headspace, and when / how do I check it?” is an often asked question posed to professional gunsmiths.

What . . .

First let’s talk about the “What is headspace, …” part of the question. The easy answer is that the Sporting Arms and Ammunition Manufacturers’ Institute (SAAMI) defines headspace as “The distance from the face of the closed breech of a firearm to the surface in the chamber on which the cartridge case seats.” If you are looking at that definition while scratching your head and thinking, “that sounds nice” but you’re not really sure what it means, you are not alone.

So in the interest of ‘muddying the waters’ a little more let’s look at some specific examples of what is measured when checking headspace. In guns chambered for rimmed cartridges (e.g., .22 Long Rifle, .30-30 Winchester) the measurement is made from the closed breech face to the front of the rim cut. In guns chambered for rimless bottleneck cartridges (e.g., .223 Remington, .30-06 Winchester) the measurement is made from the closed breech face to a specified datum reference point (an unpublished point on the shoulder at a specific diameter).

As you may have been able to tell, the actual measurement of headspace means something a little different based on the cartridge case type that the gun is chambered for (e.g., rimmed, rimless straight-walled, rimless bottleneck, belted magnum, and so on). However, headspace is telling us the same thing regardless of chambering; how far is the distance from the closed breech face to the part of the chamber that stops the forward motion of the cartridge during chambering.

Keep in mind that while correct headspace is a very important component of a safe firearm, it only checks one aspect of a gun’s suitability for safe use. A gun can have correct headspace and still be unsafe to fire due to other issue(s).

Headspace is a little like Goldilocks from the children’s story. It cannot be too big, it cannot be too small, it must be just right.

Cartridges may not chamber, the action may not go into battery, the gun may slam fire, or there may be excess pressure (which can cause very serious damage to the gun and/or the shooter) if headspace is too small. If the headspace is too big the gun may fail to fire, misfire, be inaccurate, and the cartridge cases my excessively stretch, have a short life (for reloading), or rupture (including case head separation).

When . . .

Now that we have a little better understanding of what headspace is, let’s look at when we would need to check it.

When a gun is manufactured, re-barreled or re-chambered it would need to have its headspace checked to ensure that the chamber is meeting the breech face as intended. If the chamber was cut too deep it would result in a headspace that was too large. If the chamber was cut too shallow it would result in a headspace that was too small.

When repairing or modifying a gun in a manner that alters or replaces parts in the action it can change the way that certain types of guns lock up. As an example, look at a bolt action rifle; the distance the bolt face (breech face) is from the chamber is directly related to the placement and size of the locking lugs. Thus, anything that changes the size of the locking lugs could alter the distance between the bolt face is and the chamber.

Classic American Gunsmith recommends checking headspace before any significant gunsmithing work is done to modify a gun. If a fault is found, it allows the client to correct the headspace issue before making an investment in a gun that, in its current state, may not be suitable for the purpose intended. We also require that any job involving action work must be checked for headspace and test fired before the gun is returned to the client.

How . . .

SAFETY: Do not use this post as a how to guide on checking headspace. It was written to inform our clients about what headspace is and what generally happens when they have headspace checked. If you check the headspace of some types of actions incorrectly you can damage the gun. If you do not know what you are doing, take your gun to a competent, qualified, professional gunsmith.

Now that we know why we check headspace, let’s discuss how it is measured. Again, we will start with the easy answer. Most people measure headspace by taking their gun to a competent, qualified, professional gunsmith and letting them do it.

That is not to say that the serious gun enthusiast can’t check headspace; sure they can. However, the gauges cost on the order of $30 to $60 each (depending on manufacturer, caliber / gauge / bore) and there are two or three per set (depending on your situation). That coupled with the fact that most professional gunsmiths will check headspace on a gun for $35-$70 pushes most enthusiasts to the gunsmith based on pure economics.

There are three types of headspace gauges. They are GO, NO-GO, and FIELD. All gauges, that will be used to check headspace on a gun, should be made by the same manufacturer. Do not mix and match gauge manufacturers on the same gun.

The GO gauge measures the SAMMI minimum chamber length. The NO-GO gauge measures an agreed to (by the industry) length between The SAAMI minimum and maximum chamber length. The FIELD gauge measures the SAMMI maximum chamber length or slightly less.

I was taught in gunsmithing school that unless you are in a combat situation do not use FIELD gauges to check headspace. As stated earlier, cartridge case head separations and wall ruptures can occur in a gun that will close on a NO-GO gauge and FIELD gauges are larger then NO-GO gauges. I do not use FIELD gauges in my shop and I strongly recommend that you don’t either.

Like the measurement of headspace is dependent on the type of cartridge, the technique for checking headspace is dependent on the type of action or cartridge (in certain cases) (e.g., bolt action, rimfire, revolver, lever action, pump action) the gun has or is chambered for. This post will cover the general concepts of checking headspace. It is not a how-to guide for checking headspace

In general, to check headspace:

      1. As with all things, you first must ensure that the gun is not loaded. When working on any gun there should never be any live ammunition in the gun or at the workbench.
      2. Rid the action of parts that can interfere with the gauges that will not be used during the test (e.g., extractor, ejector, firing pin). In some gun types, we also remove certain springs while checking headspace. If parts are riveted in place we strip the action the best we can.
      3. Clean the chamber, and any other part of the gun that will come in contact with the gauge.
      4. Cycle the action several times getting a feel for how it closes when empty. Go slowly. Do not force anything. Understand how much force it takes to close. Measure or mark the position of breech faces that do not have a physical locking mechanism (e.g, blowback actions). If it is possible, only use one finger to operate the action.
      5. Place the GO gauge in the chamber. Slowly close the action. Do not force it. Does it lock / does the breech face return to the same position? Does it feel the same? If the action is the same as when empty, remove the Go gauge and;
      6. Place the NO-GO gauge in the chamber. Slowly close the action. Do not force it. Does it lock / does the breech face return to the same position? Does it feel the same? It should not. It should not lock up. The breech face should not return to the same measurement.  The NO-GO gauge should be holding the action open. If the gun closes on a NO-GO gauge it is not safe. Even if it does not close on a FIELD gauge, if a gun closes on a NO-GO gauge do not do anything with it (e.g., shoot it, sell it) until the headspace issue has been corrected.

Generally speaking, If the action closes on the GO gauge but does not close on the NO-GO gauge the gun has headspace that is within limits.

Now you know what is headspace is and generally how it is checked. When building, repairing, or modifying guns, always keep in mind that headspace is one of the very important tolerances that cannot be overlooked. I recommend that you make sure that whoever is checking the headspace on your guns is detail oriented, knowledgeable and careful. This is an area where a small error can lead to irreparable damage to a gun or worse, the injury or death of a shooter.

 

Footnotes / Sources:

The Sporting Arms and Ammunition Manufacturers’ Institute, SAAMI, is an association of the larger US manufacturers of guns, ammunition and components. At the request of the US Government, it was founded in 1926 and tasked with creating and publishing US firearms industry standards. For more information on SAAMI, their standards, etc, please visit their website at www.sammi.org ⇒.

Classic American Gunsmith uses Dave Manson ⇒ headspace gauges for all calibers / gauges / bores they are available for.

general

We’re Open for Business!

It is noon on January 2, 2015 and we are finally open. Our hours today are 12 PM – 5 PM.

I know that our sign isn’t up yet, and there are a few other things that aren’t quite where we want them to be. However, we are open and ready for your business. We look forward to meeting you soon.

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The 10/22 Companion

Full disclosure: I am friends with the author of this book.

Bob Newton, a member of RRPC and a friend of mine, has written a book titled The 10/22 Companion: How to Operate, Troubleshoot, Maintain, and Improve Your Ruger 10/22.

I think that The 10/22 Companion is great resource for 10/22 enthusiasts at all levels. Its 62 pages and 101 photographs are filled with good, solid, experienced based information organized in clear easy to understand language. I recommend The 10/22 Companion for all people who are interested in learning more about or doing more with their Ruger 10/22 rifles.

I first encountered the document that grew into The 10/22 Companion when I, and others, assisted Bob give a Ruger 10/22 Rifle Maintenance & Customization Workshop at RRPC ⇒ earlier this year. It was shorter at that time, but even then it was a great information resource about the iconic rifles.

To learn more visit www.1022companion.com ⇒.

general, gun

Remington Agrees to Replace Rifle Triggers

In a settlement that they have set aside nearly $30 million dollars for, Remington has agreed to settle multiple class action lawsuits by replacing the triggers of Models 78 Sportsman, 600, 660, 673, 700, 710, 715, 721, 722, 725, 770, and Seven rifles, as well as the Model XP-100 long range pistol.

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Jerry Kuhnhausen’s Books

Book Cover
Book Cover

A quick aside on Mr. Kuhnhausen’s books. If you are working on a gun that Jerry Kuhnhausen has written a book about and you are not using his book as a reference you are doing yourself a great disservice.

I have heard many people I consider master ‘smiths, and even some guild members, swear by his books. They are well written, organized for easy use at the workbench, extremely detailed, and thorough.

If you don’t have the complete Kuhnhausen series you can find them at Heritage Gun Books ⇒, Brownells ⇒, etc.

general

The Dreaded Unavailable Part

If they practice their craft long enough, both professional gunsmiths and weekend hobbyists will eventually encounter the issue of an unavailable part.

Sometimes it might not be available because the gun is obsolete or rare. Other times the factory, the gun shows, Numrich, Jack First, Wisner’s, Brownells, and all other known suppliers just don’t have any.

If you have the worn out or broken part you can use it as a template to make a new one. However, what do you do when a gun is missing the part and no supplier has a replacement or replica available?

As I have said many times, “The most valuable tool in the shop is a good library.” So when I have exhausted all of the above options, I turn to LeeRoy Wisner’s Handbook of Hard-To-Find Gun Parts Drawings. It contains 488 pages of gunsmithing goodness detailing over 2,900 drawings for hard-to-find gun parts. It also  provides instruction on selecting the correct steel, heat treatment, and fabrication.

While the Handbook of Hard-To-Find Gun Parts Drawings is an excellent resource for this type of information there are a few things to keep in mind before you embark on building a replacement part.

The first is always safety. If you do not fully understand the design, and cycle of operation of the gun you are working on, and specifically the part you are considering making, then do not work on it. Take it to a qualified gunsmith for repair. All gunsmiths are legally and morally responsible for repairing guns in a manner that does not play a role in creating any unsafe condition now or in the future.

I cannot speak for other shops, but I know I am happy to work on a project that a customer was not comfortable starting or finishing. In most cases, I am also happy to answer questions you may have about how the work should be done. Just be honest and talk openly with your gunsmith – you might be surprised by the results.

Second, it is important to remember that the drawings in the book were created by measuring used parts. The model parts may have been well worn,  fitted to a specific gun on installation, or modified by the owner. Thus, these drawings are guidelines for parts fabrication. The gunsmith will need to pair these guidelines with the condition and tolerances of the gun on the workbench to create the new part. Parts created from these specifications will need to be hand fitted.

Lastly, you will need to have certain skills and tools to make a part using this book. You will have to be able to accurately read a drawing, select a suitable material, work the material into the part, heat treat the part, etc. Price out the project before starting, you might find that it is not financially viable. It may be financially less burdensome to take the project to someone who already has the materials, tools, and skills.

So what do you do if the part you need isn’t available anywhere and the Handbook of Hard-To-Find Gun Parts Drawings doesn’t cover it? I would suggest two things.

First, I would let the good folks at Brownells know that you would like to see it added to the Handbook of Hard-To-Find Gun Parts Drawings. This will let them know what is of interest to their customers for any future editions or updates that they may consider.

Second, try and find someone who has the same gun. If you can find a working version of the same gun you can use the part in the second gun as a guide for fabricating the part you need. If you cannot find exactly the same gun keep in mind that often gun manufacturers used the same parts in many different models. If the research supports this situation you can find a gun with the same part and work with it. My caution about understanding the design, and cycle of operation of the gun you are working on doubly applies here.

If it works out, remember to make a drawing of the part for future reference and add it to your copy of Handbook of Hard-To-Find Gun Parts Drawings.

Good luck.

general

Most Important Gunsmithing Tool

The most important tool a professional gunsmith or serious hobbyist can have is a good library. This is especially true for those of us that work in small shops. If you have a question where will you get the answer? The answer is most often found in a book.

Wondering how to convert the safety on a Remington 870 from right hand to left hand? Manufacturer’s instructions (with drawing) can be found on page 711 of the Encyclopedia of Modern Firearms by Bob Brownell.

Need to know anything about the mysterious art of customizing the 1911? Check The Colt .45 Automatic and The U.S. M1991/M1911A1 Pistols & Commercial M1911 Type Pistols by Jerry Kuhnhausen. If it has something to do with 1911’s and it is not in one of those books there is a good chance that you don’t need to know it.

You cant remember how to use the thingamajig you bought from Brownells three years ago. Go to the binder where you keep all the three-hole-punched instruction sheets they send you and review. Oh, you don’t keep them where you can find them easily. You should, it will take less time keeping them organized then finding and downloading a new one from the Internet.

Here is a list of a few of the books, etc. in my shops’ library:

You will notice that the reference library doesn’t have to be limited to books and magazines either. I have DVDs, PDF documents, etc., and a constantly running supply of my own notes as well.

Ok, I think that you get the point. Much of what you don’t know or can’t remember is on the pages of thousands of gun reference works. Take the time to build a good shop reference library and it will earn the investment you have in it back for you many times over.

 

Footnotes / Sources:

1 – I keep all of the back issues of American Gunsmith that I can get my hands on. If you have any 2010 or earlier copies you no longer want, I’ll gladly pay shipping.